Крила Бучача

Репортаж з міста на Тернопільщині, де творив Пінзель і народився Агнон.

“Викривлені вулички збігали в середмістя, до ратуші, наче русла висхлих річок. За сотні років безводдя їхні береги вбралися в камінь низьких огорож, поросли кущами, деревами й будинками, тільки одне ложе залишалося з водою — річка Стрипа. Бучач де-не-де скидався на італійське приморське місто, навіть іноді вчувалося в повітрі море. На місці колишніх маяків, на верхівках високих постаментів, стриміли в небо стовпи з фігурами Яна Непомука та Діви Марії. Сірі галасливі птахи зринали чайками в небо”.

Це цитата з роману “Інші пів’яблука”. Чому я її тут згадала? Бо це місто є одним з героїв роману, і у мій недавній приїзд у це районне містечко на Тернопільщині, Бучач знову виставив усюди знаки і натяки на те, що море близько. Воно ховається глибоко під землею. Десь під ратушею, зведеною у ХVIII столітті геніальним мистецьким тандемом — архітектором Бернардом Меретином та скульпторомІоаном-Георгом Пінзелем. На фронтоні цієї споруди поміж кам’яних фігур біблійних та міфічних героїв був колись і цар морів Нептун. “Нептун, який заспокоює море”. Не розбурхує, всупереч традиційним очікуванням, а стишує бурю. У підвалинах ратуші час до часу збирається вода, наче з-під мурів піднімаються й опадають підземні хвилі. Я бачила прозору світлу воду минулого разу, обстеживши ратушу від підземелля до верхівки.

Річка Стрипа (на фото зверху) цього року дивує чистотою своїх вод. Стоячи на містку на вулиці Шкільній чи на кладці у Підзамочку, бачиш камінчики на дні. А згори, на значній відстані, Стрипа виглядає звивистим меандром, знаком безкінечності, символом вічного руху. Ним можна милуватися з міських схилів, з пагорбів найближчих сіл — Рукомиша, Підзамочка, Монастирка… Творець цієї землі наче залишив водою виведений підпис, засвідчивши авторство, задоволений результатом.

На старих вуличних мурах з сірого та червоного каменю зводять нові будівлі, нові огорожі. Основа надійна, вона витримає ще чимало випробувань часом. Тими “мурцями” (почула це слово у Бучачі й “забрала” собі) місто теж нагадує південне…

З якими іменами асоціюється Бучач? Перш за все з Іоанном-Георгом Пінзелем (1707-1761). Він був бучачанином майже півтора десятки років, тут одружився, тут народилися його сини, тут була його майстерня… І з іменем Нобелівського лауреата з літератури Шмуеля Агнона (1888-1970) поєднане місто. Літературознавці порахували, що народжений у Бучачі письменник згадав у своєму творчому спадку це місто 1790 разів! Зокрема — у романі «Гість на одну ніч». Агнон написав його після того, як у 1929 році знову побував у Бучачі.

Моя нещодавня поїздка до Бучача залишила у пам’яті несподіваний знак, своєрідний символ міста. Крила. Перо з крила. Одне, невідомо від якої пташки, я підібрала, спускаючись з гори Федір до міської ратуші. А тоді почула таку легенду.

Фундатор бучацької ратуші Микола Потоцький вимагав від майстрів, що її зводили, аби вона була вищою за вежу Корнякта у Львові. А коли ратуша постала в усій своїй красі, Потоцький начебто наказав зачинити будівничих на верхівці споруди. Вирішив розважитись, спостерігаючи за тим, як вони звідти виберуться, чи доведуть свою вправність. Майстри, подумавши, заходилися лагодити собі крила. Перший, стрибнувши, розбився на каменях майдану. Другий втопився у водах Стрипи. А третій, на ім’я Федір, перелетів річку й приземлився на горі, яку згодом бучачани назвали його ім’ям. На цій горі стоїть ще одна пізнавана, видима звідусіль споруда — монастир отців василіанів. За ним — старий міський цвинтар. Там похований відомий у світі художник-імпресіоніст, бучачанин, який повернувся в Україну на схилі років, Володимир Воронюк. Минулого року спільними зусиллями земляки звели йому надгробний пам’ятник. За портретом митця, який немов виламується з обмежень та заборон, розриваючи рамку, світиться металевим мереживом чи то крило, чи то пір’їна…

Згодом у майстерні бучацького художника Анатолія Рудницького поміж магічних міських пейзажів я побачила й такий: над дахами Бучача кружляє пташине пір’я… Нова асоціація з містом закріпилася у розмові з невтомним краєзнавцем, музикантом, режисером, фотографом, культменеджером Віктором Гребеньовським. Кілька років тому занедбаний дворик у центрі міста (там, де свого часу стояв будинок, у якому народився Шмуель Агнон) Віктор з однодумцями перетворили на “Арт-Двір”. Найцікавіше у культурному житті міста відбувається тепер там — зустрічі з письменниками, художниками, музикантами, концерти, читання, майстер-класи… Як можна братися за усі цікаві ідеї водночас? Віктор на моє щире захоплення відбувається жартом: аво, мовляв, начіпляю собі крила, а тоді…

Не розповідатиму цього разу про відомі перлини Бучача. Хто буде у цьому місті, не обмине розвалини замку, Покровську церкву, Успенський костел (у двох останніх спорудах можна побачити роботи Пінзеля)… Дух міста не відчути, якщо не перейтися нетуристичними стежками. Побачити з різних точок панораму середмістя, зупинитися, милуючись кам’яним каскадом вуличних ліній. Там, де з одного боку, майже на рівні ніг — дах будиночка вулицею нижче. А з другого — споруда, у “спину” якої дихає, підтискаючи її, схил пагорба.

Свої улюблені місця мені показали товаришки-бучачанки, Лілія Шподарунок (вона вже кілька років живе у Лондоні) та Оксана Сиванич, багато років як львів’янка. Натхненні любов’ю до Бучача, до робіт Пінзеля, ми обійшли місто вздовж і впоперек, і воно показало нам багато, але це була лише частина його принад. У тих наших проходах однаково важливими були визначні пам’ятки і згадки з приватної історії — будинок дитинства Оксани на горі Федір, весь у заростях півоній та флоксів, з ретро-лавками, з вгрузлим у траву корпусом старої автівки. І затишне помешкання з каміном та книжками, з вікном “на василіани”, яке теперішня господиня Ліля і далі називає (а ми за нею) “Хатка в тьоті Роми”. Без маленьких історій не відчуєш живого дихання великої історії. Як не пізнаєш міста без допомоги бучачан.

Ми піднімалися до замку старою вуличкою. Саме тут була, мабуть, колись майстерня Пінзеля, вголос розмірковувала я. Десь тут майстер різав свої шедеври з найкращого матеріалу — бучацької липи та місцевого каменю, травертину. Людина-енциклопедія, колекціонер, знавець міста, корінний бучачанин Юрій Базанов зі мною не погодився: он там насправді могла бути робітня Пінзеля, сказав він, показавши убік монастиря василіанів. Там, поблизу, був палац Потоцького. А оскільки Пінзель був придворним скульптором, то й майстерня мала би бути при палаці. Від палацу залишилися лише старі мури, на них згодом звели іншу будівлю. Тепер там РАЦС, контора адвоката і нотаріуса, атлетичний клуб… Чи знають відвідувачі клубу, що там, де вони “качаються”, колись нестримний “п’яндига і гуляйда” Микола Потоцький бавився з розмахом, аж поки не злякався огрому набутих гріхів та й заходився із тим самим завзяттям робити добрі діла, щедро фінансуючи зведення пишних споруд, які стоять і досі…

У дванадцятитисячному місті весь час щось відбувається. Одна з новин міста така. Відтепер у Покровській церкві (тій самій, звідки на виставку робіт Пінзеля до Лувру тимчасово брали дияконські ворота), “піднімають” зі сховку давню ікону. Ми теж її побачили. Це добре збережена “Цариця неба і землі” (її ще називають “Благовіщення” (на фото). Багато років вона ховалася у глибокій ніші. Час знищив механізм, що піднімав її на поверхню, але Степан Слободян полагодив його. Степан Казимирович пам’ятає цей образ з дитинства. Каже: коли ми дітьми бачили, що піднімають цей образ, а це завжди було 7 квітня на Благовіщення, то ми розуміли: незабаром Паска…

Єдина напівзруйнована скульптура, що збереглася на ратуші
Єдина напівзруйнована скульптура, що збереглася на ратуші

Озирнулася, прощаючись з містом до наступного разу. Такий ритуал — кинути оком на ратушу. І тоді у тому місці, де споруда переходить у дворівневу вежу, над понівеченою балюстрадою, по усьому її периметру, можна побачити ледь помітне мерехтіння. Повітря тремтить, наче у випарах бензину, малює обриси давно втрачених скульптур. Геракл вбиває Немейського лева. Давид перемагає Голіафа. Геракл знищує Лернейську гідру. Невільник намагається розірвати пута…

Джерело:  Високий замок online

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  12. Apple previously incorporates Rhapsody as an app, which is a Wonderful get started, however it is at present hampered as a result of the lack of ability in direction of keep domestically on your iPod, and consists of a dismal 64kbps little bit price tag. If this modifications, then it will to some degree negate this advantage for the Zune, yet the 10 songs for every month will continue to be a massive as well as inside Zune Pass’ choose.

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  13. If you are nonetheless upon the fence: get your favorite earphones, intellect down in the direction of a Best Acquire and inquire to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and view which a single seems improved in the direction of oneself, and which interface generates on your own smile excess. Then you will understand which is instantly for on your own.

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  14. In between me and my husband we’ve owned added MP3 gamers about the decades than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the final couple of yrs I have resolved down to just one line of avid gamers. Why? Due to the fact I was pleased to locate how well-designed and enjoyable in the direction of hire the underappreciated (and greatly mocked) Zunes are.

    Reply
  15. The contemporary Zune browser is astonishingly favourable, nevertheless not as superior as the iPod’s. It works perfectly, but isn’t really as instantaneous as Safari, and is made up of a clunkier interface. If your self at times application upon employing the web browser that is not an issue, but if you might be creating in direction of examine the world wide web alot in opposition to your PMP then the iPod’s much larger display screen and far better browser could be vital.

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